Revolver Timing Issues – Fitting the Bolt
Revolver Timing Issues – Fitting the Bolt
Sometimes revolvers have issues regarding the fitting of the bolt to the cylinder. The peening of the cylinder as the bolt comes down too early and putting an ugly dent into the notch is a common problem with many of the Uberti and Pietta percussion cap revolvers. Careful modifications can remedy the situation but each revolver is different and must be approached as such. Don’t forget to buy extra hammers as you will destroy some if it’s your first time. It’s not voodoo or black magic, just some careful modifications.
****BE ALERT, WORKING ON YOUR FIREARMS CAN BE DANGEROUS, WE CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ERRORS ON YOUR PART. SEEK OUT SOMEONE COMPETENT IF YOU DON’T FEEL CONFIDENT IN YOUR ABILITIES***
By removing material from the cam won’t that make the bolt drop even sooner on a revolver that the bolt drops before the full rotation?
I love this channel you deal with important issues for gun owners.
What are the 4 clicks I am hearing in my out of tune revolver.
I have 2 Remingtons , one I can hear 4 distinct clicks, the other is tuned and I hear the first click then all the rest sound as one.
I backed off the spring, cleared right up. Only had to remove the trigger guard and back off the trigger spring, tighten it down just enough to function. Also makes spring last longer
Thanks for this video, very helpful.
Thanks for the vid! I recently purchased a uberti 1858, the quality has greatly improved in these pistols but mine is just a tiny tiny bit off in its timing. With the help of this video I’m sure I can correct it! Thanks again!
is it possible to buy a uberti that you won’t have any problems with and not have to do any repair, gunsmithing, filing? how can you check in the shop whether the gun’s parts are fitted perfectly?
That is a case hardened hammer. The outside is hard and the I side is soft. You probably went through the hardened metal into the softer metal, now it will wear faster.
My cylinder has a wear ring all the way around it. The stop notches actually have a smash bee as though it where hit with a ball peen hammer at each barrel from smash and wear.
Good video for the start of repair
That confuses me a bit. If you file that piece down on the hammer wouldnt that release the cylinder stop even sooner?
Thanks for the info, I appreciate your help. I have been trying to figure this out for a while.
This is just bad advice.
Dont treat parts as consumables.
Dont file parts you dont need to.
Wanna solve this problem without wasting money and time? Without abusing your gun?
Watch this guy instead.
https://youtu.be/GWJ9zn0Ufb0
Hi, Im trying to sort out the timing on a euroarms sheriff model .36 (colt navy) i am going to try use pietta parts (if the work). Im just confused, there is what i believe to be the same problem as in this video, that the bolt is coming up too soon. (probably half way between the two notches if not earlier.) what your doing in this video to the bolt cylinder cam in my mind would only release the bolt sooner..? rather then keep it out of the way until the notch comes into position..? I thought the problem was more that the rear of the bolt was too short, that if it were longer it would be kept out of the way until later when the notch was in the correct position..? I was also wondering if the hand was longer then would it cause the cylinder to rotate more before the bolt came up..? (i mean release the bolt later) I am finding it hard to understand the relation between the three parts if removing metal from the bolt cylinder cam causes it to release later, does that not cause the bolt to come up sooner?
I’m going sound like ass here..but you file to time bolt …you file the leg of bolt not the cam. I only wish I knew where find vid. I had from 80s magzine. Wrote by guy named Ball. Think he is dead now. I loss the magazine in move. Sorry guys feel bad saying this..
When Blackie Thomas Disassembled His New Army, He Screwed Each Little Screw Back In It’s Place During The Process. This Seems Like A Good Idea. Any Reassembly Confusion Eliminated.
I’m having the exact opposite problem. I need the bolt to come up sooner. It’s almost in the cylinder when it come up and if you get a little snappy with cocking the gun the cylinder will skip right over the bolt before it can come up.
is this repair neccessary ? when i am cocking the gun slowly everything lines up properly. Problem occurs when i cock fast. There are some scratches on the cylinder but despite the estetic value will it effect revolver’s function?
that cam does not do anything for the timing all this will do is let the bolt stop leg slip off ,its the bolt leg you should work on
Hey there manny, I dig your videos. I used to really be into firearms as a youngster, but after a tour in the 82nd Abn. I did not want to ever fire a weapon again. (That was 30 years ago) I am at peace with myself once again. So I have shaken the dust off of my old firearms as well as my father’s that I have inherited by his passing. I have even bought a .45 single action Ruger and a Henry lever action in the same caliber. Your videos are very inspiring in building the confidence I need to start doing a little "kitchen table" gun smithing. Thanks pal! Post Skript: the next time you see one of those filthy lite beer cans creeping around your place put one in ‘m for me.
where do you get the extra hammer/ parts?
Manny maybe you can shed some light? Purchased a Uberti 1858 along with Taylor’s conversion cylinder. I went straight to the conversion cylinder had to see how it worked. With both the BP cylinder and the conversion cylinder the revolver timing and all seemed spot on; a first for me. Any way fired a dozen or two 45 LC cowboy loads; some CcI 4 shot. Gun run flawlessly. Yesterday I went to shoot in with the BP cylinder. Get it all loaded up apply the primers.go to take first shot with ball and powder and the hammer would not lock in the full cock position. Now it did out of the box before I used the conversion cylinder? Put the conversion cylinder back in and hammer locks back as it should. You’re supposed to be able to go back in fourth between cylinders? What is hiccuping? Thanks Joe
thank you much
From hammer down, it’s;
1. bolt unlocks the cylinder
2. cylinder begins to rotate as the trigger falls into the half cock notch
(when hammer is left at half cock, cylinder rotates freely, i.e. no dragging on the bolt)
3. bolt is released and drops against cylinder, about ONE bolt width before lockup (Colts have a lead in the cylinder. Remies dont.)
4. trigger falls into full cock notch, followed almost immediately by
5. the bolt locking into the cylinder notch
If it’s doing all that in order, then there’s nothing to mess with that won’t mess up that sequence.
You may interphere with the bolt unlock timing. So when you pull back the hammer, the bolt will not drop and will stop the cylinder from turning. Damaging the hand. If you are not a gunsmith and know how the bolt and cam functions, or at least the name of the parts, Leave it to the professionals.
This video leaves a lot of questions… Wtf no explanation
I have a F.LLi Pietta Remington 1858 and just today, when I pull the hammer back the cyclinder dosent rotate anymore. Would you know why? Also, where can I get spare parts for it?
One thing we used to do after filing trigger groups especially, if the metal was to soft, was to heat treat and lightly anneal the parts. That will create a much more smooth hammer and trigger even if you have a heavier trigger pull. It is the best treatment, besides surfaces, to smooth a trigger. You’re doing good. Some guys use fine files and that’s perfectly fine. Some of us found advantage in using fine stones. A hardened polished surface with clean edges is hard to beat.
👍
Manny, just enjoying night time while clarifying some mights of revolver smithing.
Would you explain this same problem over new Blackhawk’s (wear line on new cylinder in’t nice).
thank you for sharing,may just digg out mine to work on it ,as it was over running
cant wait to see the hand/paw video hopefully see where to file down,thanks
"wherever they is wear is what you want to address," was the best gun repair advice for at home tinkerers
Hey Manny, I have question about this if you don’t mind. Is there a better way to contact you so I could ask a more detailed question and try to explain what my gun is doing. Maybe even send you a short video of it if I can manage to take one lol. I just got the gun this morning and it is brand new and I have yet to fire it or anything. I "think" the bolt might be coming up too soon, but I am not sure to be honest. Since it is brand new there are no wear marks or dents in the cylinder yet. I can only go by what I see when I cock it. And to be honest I am not entirely sure what I am looking at. I don’t want to go filing on my hammer if I don’t need to.
Before filing anything, one should reduce the tension on the combination trigger/bolt spring screw.
No sense in filing parts when a minor adjustment will do the trick.
Rotating the cam will set the timing of when the bolt releases from the cam – on the originals, the cam is a separate piece. But – you don’t want the bolt to pop up directly into the stops on the cylinder. If you time it like that, it will rotate past when you really need it and cock the gun fast. I would recommend setting it so the bolt comes up about a bolt-width from the stop and let it slide in.
Great video Manny thanks!
The problem isn’t timing, it’s ultra soft Italian steel. Ruger bolts rise even earlier, and yet they don’t groove the cylinder.
I disagree with you saying that’s the only way. filing the bolt top (maintaining the contours) can prevent future wear on any cylinder. you just can’t remove too much just like anything else. you can also break the bolts edge slightly and still have ample lock up area. this method has worked for me every time. just like fitting a 1911 lock up. just the right amount. good video nonetheless.
good video not a lot of ramblings shows the problem disassemble fix it put back together thanks
Not gonna damage you Manny by telling you your the best . But can tell you I enjoy watching you work better than the others I know . Ever figure what you might trade for my nickeled flat latch presentation model ? The one with the funky faux stag grips is ready when you want to add another to your collection . I’ll be watching a fine armorer at work here . Thanks be
Not really to do with the video here, but do you think it would work if I’d remove the blackened finish on the cyllinder for aesthetics? Or it would mess with how it works?
I used the info in this video to adjust my Pietta Navy for a conversion cylinder. It was necessary to narrow the cylinder lock bolt to fit the slots in my the cartridge cylinder. Worked like a champ! Thanks a lot.
I have a question, do you file on top as at 8.26 OR on the side as at 11-20, thank you.
Hey great video you just helped me with my 1858 pietta.
Really? You should finish your work
Z
MannyCA- i just finished watching your video regarding stretching the pawl out, which seemed to be solving the same problem. How do you determine whether to stretch the pawl or to modify the bolt release as shown in this video?
Old but pertinent info, thanks Manny. I literally just finished timing the bolt on my New Army. The fifth time was the charm, it’s spot on now. These videos are invaluable.
Don’t do this. It will only make the problem worse and ruin a lot of hammers.
I had a S&W Mod 66 a long time ago, it was going to be my new service pistol as a Deputy. Brand new it would lock up, it took me a little while to figure out what was happening, but I finally found it was trying to turn the cylinder before the locking lug released, it would lock up solid, so it was a timing issue. When the local S&W gunsmith couldn’t figure it out, I sent it back to S&W factory, it came back working perfectly and served me through several years of duty carry.
Excellent video! Can you recommend a set of file(s) for the beginning gunsmith who wants to build one of these kits? Thanks!
do you have to tear them apart every time you clean it I am limited to Black Powder guns only
I tried doing what you said, I thought I had it, but it back together and it worked for a little while then wouldn’t. I think I took off just a bit too much, when I cock it to half cock the bolt pops up. Wish I wouldn’t have messed with it now, the hammer really isn’t that cheap, $30 with postage. Live and learn I guess.
I have a Pietta 1858 Remington with the Kirst 45 Long Colt conversion. I am having issues with the conversion and hope you might have some insight.
The ‘K’ plate with the shell door base needed to be filed slightly so it fit evenly in the frame. Initially the flat part of the plate had the cylinder binding. That’s now corrected. However in the process I managed to break the flat spring on the ‘hand’ that’s attached to the hammer that advances the cylinder. I pulled too hard on the trigger while it was binding and that broke the spring on the Hand as well as possible other damage.
I ordered the replacement part (All this through Taylors) and it’s a match. Upon reassembly of just the trigger mechanism and hammer it cocks and releases normally when the trigger is pulled.
However, when I install the cylinder it only cocks halfway, does not lock until I move the cylinder a little and the locking lug at the bottom of the frame engages the notch in the cylinder keeping it in place. Then the hammer goes back all the way and locks. It’s aligned with the chamber and barrel and when trigger pulled the hammer falls BUT the bottom lug releases at the same time causing the cylinder to move slightly.
With the ‘K’ plate off I and just the cylinder installed I can see the Hand advancing the cylinder in the notch but it still binds slightly and I have to slightly move it with my hand while putting pressure on the trigger and moving the hammer with my thumb. Then it will advance and lock into place.
I installed the original black powder cylinder to see if the same thing happened and it does.
I’m not sure if the Hand needs to be bent slightly as described in your video or if the lug that locks it into place is messed up. Really concerned about the lug dropping when I pull the trigger. That’s only supposed to happen I cock it. There is also that little drag mark on the cylinder from the locking lug as you showed in your video.
I fear I may have messed up that lug piece or something. For the record the action and cylinder worked fine out of the box.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
"no way to put it back on" well maybe for most. But I ain’t most.